Tuesday, May 24

Culture. Yves Saint Laurent honored in six Parisian museums

The dresses of Yves Saint Laurent integrate the permanent collections of the Center Pompidou, Orsay, Louvre and three other museums in Paris for a unprecedented celebration of the 60th anniversary of the house which highlights the artistic genius of the great couturier.

The official inauguration took place simultaneously in the six places on Saturday January 29, the date on which Saint Laurent, aged 26, had presented his first fashion show in 1962. The exhibitions will also be held at the Picasso and Modern Art museums. , as well as at the Yves Saint Laurent museum until May 15.

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“The house has already celebrated so many birthdays. (…) I wanted to do something else, ”said Madison Cox, president of the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation.

In 1983, Saint Laurent’s outfits entered the Metropolitan Museum in New York, making him the first couturier to be exhibited in a fine arts museum during his lifetime.

In Paris, a major retrospective was dedicated to his work at the Petit Palais in 2010.

Treasure hunt

In 2022, “it would have been boring to find an empty space, do some scenography and furnish it with clothes. It was important to integrate them into the permanent collections,” says Madison Cox.

At the Center Pompidou, the route is indicated in a leaflet, but the visit can become a treasure hunt: finding a Saint Laurent piece discreetly installed in the middle of works with which it dialogues, such as the famous Mondrian dress.

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“There are dialogues explicitly claimed by Saint Laurent, but also visual comparisons that we have allowed ourselves” such as an orange dress with a full skirt with gyratory patterns placed in the middle of Sonia Delaunay’s kinetic paintings, explains Marie Sarré, from the service modern collections from the Center Pompidou.

Attract other audiences

According to her, this approach will bring other audiences to the museum, while Parisians who come mainly for the temporary exhibitions will thus rediscover the permanent collection.

Landscaper, Madison Cox wishes to show through these exhibitions “where ideas come from” for timeless creations whose modernity is striking.

It is in the heart of the Salon de l’horloge at the Musée d’Orsay that dresses created for the Bal Proust for the Baronne de Rothschild and Jane Birkin will be exhibited.

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On the other hand, a dress “which looks like it descended from the Luncheon on the Grass by Manet and Monet could not be presented, the luminosity of the room being too aggressive for a fragile fabric.

In the Galerie d’Apollon at the Louvre, you will find the heart, a favorite jewel that Saint Laurent designed in the 1960s and which he had worn by one of his muses in all his parades.

For a woman with buttocks and boobs

While fine arts museums welcome clothes, the fashion museum has chosen to exhibit… Yves Saint Laurent’s drawings which “are appreciated as such”.

With 350 sketches of the models that the couturier had chosen for his last retrospective show in 2002 at the Center Pompidou, “we have at a glance a synthetic vision of the work” of the couturier who was “an outstanding designer”, underlines Aurélie Samuel , heritage curator and director of the Yves Saint Laurent museum.

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Once validated, the piece was cut out of cotton canvas before being finally made with a chosen fabric. Sometimes the finished product did not fall well.

“The piece was then removed from the collection and the parade. He was an artist: he made a first draft, it didn’t work, we don’t do it again, ”says Aurélie Samuel.

During the entire preparation of the collection, which lasted a month and a half, all the canvases were retouched on a living model, “which is no longer done today”.

“Each canvas was designed on a model that has hips, buttocks, breasts, a woman in fact. Today, the models do not have shapes to fit into all the clothes and be hired by as many houses as possible”, according to Aurélie Samuel.

Reference-www.leprogres.fr

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