It is in the former premises of Spring that Tom Meyer has settled. And his Granite restaurant seems set to enjoy the same success as that of Daniel Rose. In just a few months, this former chef of Anne-Sophie Pic (he is said to have created 400 dishes for her) has caused a lot of ink to flow with his high-flying cuisine.
At a time when restaurants are experiencing a drop in attendance, the young 27-year-old chef can even boast of filling up: all of Paris is in a hurry to discover his tasty and technical cuisine, the fruit of his prestigious experience.
He embarked on this Parisian adventure with Stéphane Manigold (Maison Rostang, Substance, Contraste, etc.).
Two dishes leave a lasting mark on whoever is lucky enough to dine at Granite.
© Paul Stefanaggi
First there is the superb Racan pigeon, cooked on the chest and served with grilled broccoli. The tender flesh of the poultry contrasts with the delicate layer of cocoa nibs and millet that covers it. Everything is crunchy and reveals a range of flavors that we will shake up with a combawa condiment. It is superb.
The second highlight of the menu is embodied in a dish that is already the signature of the Jura: gnocchi with a runny heart. A realization that will have required hours of development in the kitchen. “Initially, I wanted to have a starch à la carte. It’s a bit regressive,” explains the chef. In the end, it offers an astonishing spectacle on the plate when the envelope splits and spills its still warm stream of shellfish with fennel and coriander.
© Paul Stefanaggi
Like the mythical berlingots of its former patron Anne-Sophie Pic, the recipe can be declined in different versions. Moreover for the new year, it was a question of heart with caviar.
With these two creations (to be discovered in the seven-course menu at 125 euros), Tom Meyer announces the color but also sets a course. He hopes to quickly win his first star in the Michelin guide. Discreet but determined, he must also try this year the difficult Competition “One of the Best Workers of France”.
Granite, 6, rue Bailleul, Paris 1st