In a tweed jacket and on horseback, Charlotte Casiraghi, from the princely family of Monaco, conveyed another idea of haute couture on Tuesday at the Chanel show in a constructivist and dreamlike setting.
At a trot, then at a gallop, the show started at the Grand Palais Ephémère, in a setting designed by the contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan with elements of horse riding and mini-golf.
Chanel ambassador and distinguished rider who has participated in several riding championships, Charlotte Casiraghi placed the show in the equestrian world, dear to the founder of the house, Gabrielle Chanel.
A film featuring her, still on horseback, accompanies the parade attended by American director Sofia Coppola, American singer Pharell Williams, French actress Vanessa Paradis, Australian actress Margot Robbie and Belgian singer Angèle.
– Avant-gardes of the 20s –
After the passage of Charlotte Casiraghi, the models trod the sand with two-tone grey-black shoes inspired by the 20s with small heels.
This decor, in reference to the avant-gardes of the 1920s and 1930s and the aesthetics of universal exhibitions, acted as a framework “where I felt very free”, said Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard in a press release. .
“These geometric shapes made me want contrasts, a great lightness and a lot of freshness: airy, floating dresses, as if suspended. Lots of ruffles, fringes, macramé, bright lace, iridescent tweeds, colorful jewelry buttons,” she added.
Suit trousers are wide, some with side slits, inside or outside the leg.
The rigid construction of the tweed jackets is balanced by the lightness of the floaty skirts.
Evening dresses, embellished with feathers, invite you to play with contrasts and transparencies.
Skirt suits are worn overlaid on lace pieces.
– Tribute to Gaspard Ulliel –
One of the centerpieces of the collection is the dress entirely embroidered with camellias in black, white and coral pearls, worn with a little black jacket.
White, ecru, beige, pale pink: the collection’s soft colors respond to the aesthetics of the show’s staging, with deliberately subdued light.
The bride, the traditional last passage of the haute couture show, wears a long, simple and refined white dress and holds a bouquet of blue flowers in her hands – a tribute to actor Gaspard Ulliel who died last week at age 37 after a skiing accident and who was the face of Bleu de Chanel perfume.
Between garden and open theater stage, the installation is made from simple materials, such as raw wood plywood.
This aesthetic with benches placed in a non-linear way makes it possible to respect the health protocol which requires distancing in addition to the FFP2 masks distributed at the entrance to the parade.
Less glamorous, the house requires all guests, even with a vaccination pass, to present a negative Covid test within 24 hours to access the show.